Jan 212010
I’ve just been chatting with a customer about why this kundan set costs what it does (£189) as she was insisting she had seen a similar set priced at half that amount.
First, one needs to understand what kundan actually is. As south asians, we have grown up seeing this type of setting, usually worn by a mum or an auntie or the latest Bollywood diva. It is very distinctive (it looks like enamel) and most of us recognise it as “traditional”.
Since Bollywood revived Devdas and then more recently Jodha Akbar, when Ashwariya Rai made us drool over her amazing jewellery, kundan has been enjoying a welcome revival even amongst the younger crowd.
Historically, kundan was a favourite of the Mughuls and was made from 24 carat gold. To this day, real kundan is hand crafted in a highly skilled process by artisans who beat and mould sheets of pure gold into shapes which are filled with lac (a natural resin). This is then enamelled or set with gems and the individual pieces are carefully soldered together to create the jewellery.
In India, the word kundan is used interchangeably to both describe this type of setting and also to mean pure gold itself. The process requires such skill that a single piece will pass through the hands of several artisans, each with a particular specialism, be it the goldwork, engraving or enamelling.
As time has progressed, the same skills have been used to create kundan jewellery in silver (chaandi) and of course now we see it replicated as costume jewellery. Which brings us back to the kundan collection at east meets west.
The price reflects the material and the craftsmanship, in this case kundan hand crafted from chaandi (silver), finished with enamel and set with beads. An experienced eye will spot the clues that indicate this is handmade kundan rather than a machined setting. The simplest check is to turn the piece over and look on the back. If it is nice and smooth with no signs of soldering and joints then it most definitely is not real kundan, whatever the salesperson is telling you! As with so many things, you get what you pay for!
So my guess is the lady I was speaking with was offered a machined costume jewellery imitation kundan set. There’s nothing wrong with that, it does its job and maybe it suits her budget. Even at east meets west we stock some “kundan effect” necklace sets and earrings for that reason. These kundan chumke look great even though they are not chaandi and at £39 are a steal!
Red and gold kundan chumke earrings
However, the finish and effect of hand crafted kundan remains superior and is well worth paying for. The great thing is, kundan is timeless. So if, like most of us, given the present price of gold you can’t afford the real thing, then invest in what is next best : a well made chaandi piece. It is an investment and you will enjoy its elegance for years to come, whenever you wear it!
i just want kundan jew. for my wife so send me some design who below 300000Rs. n how can i purchases
Hi, please check out my store at http://www.eastmwest.com. We have a kundan collection ranging from earrings on their own, to beautiful large necklace sets. Prices vary according to the design and also whether it is chaandi-based kundan. Let me know if I can help you further.